ED m Drivers &Mechanics TEN SHILLINGS WEEKLY is paid for
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Primitive Screw Cutting.
[1250] " Toby " (Cardiff) writes :β" I have pleasure in sending you particulars of a very primitive method of cutting a thread on a bolt. The idea is not entirely original, but was communicated to me by a man who has done a lot of motor-wagon operation in foreign countries, where he is sometimes stranded a very considerable distance from a repair shop. " While out on one of these trips a breakdown necessitated the shortening of half-a-dozen bolts by about 3 in. These were required for the purpose of repairing a steam pump. The threads varied in pitch, and the only common feature was that the shortening in each ease meant that the whole of the thread had to be removed. It was thus necessary,. if the bolts were to be used, for new threads to be cut on the shanks. The job was managed in the following manner.
"A nut was placed on the end of each bolt and was given one turn on to the thread. A piece of wood was then notched out to fit tightly on the outside of the nut, as shown in the sketch. [We have had this redrawn.βEn.] A hole was then made in the other end of the wood which was of the right diameter to take a pencil fairly tightly. Chalk was then rubbed over the bolt. A pencil was next knocked into the hole until it was just. bearing on the metal and, by turning the nut, which, of course, carried with it the wood, the pencil marked the pitch that was required. The thread was then cut as nearly accurate as possible by means of a three-cornered file. As I say, the method is very primitive, but in cases of serious emergency it may enable some driver to keep a machine running for at least a few miles."
When Adjusting the Small Ends.
[12811 " W.111." (Coventry) writes :β" When overhauling engines which have been in use for some time, a certain amount of play is generally to be found in the small ends of the connecting rod. To remedy this
the bush should be pressed out of position in the vice, and a layer of solder sweated on to the outside surface. When this is again pressed into position, it will be found to be some few thousands smaller than before, and the pin can then be refitted, and will be found much better than previously. This dodge can be applied to other small bushes used for a similar purpose on machinery, etc.
"I recently cut my finger pretty badly on the knifeedge of a flange which was spinning in the lathe, arid I had some little trouble qwing to dirt getting in. The doctor gave me a, very useful tip, which I think could be well remembered in the shop. It was not to use water or diluted carbolic acid, but instead, to use iodine. This penetrates all oil and dirt, and cleanses the wound thoroughly. If it is well rubbed in. it has a very beneficial effect, and the wound heals much more rapidly than if other materials are used."
Grinding in with a Brace.
[1282] " W.0 P." (Morden) writes :β" Perhaps the following description and sketch of a very handy little tool, which I made up for my own use, may be of interest to your readers. It is intended for service when grinding in cylinder taps and gauge cocks. I have found it to give very good results, and the work can be done much quicker than when the plugs are ground in by hand. "The materials necessary are not very expensive. Two pieces of sheet steel about 5 in. by in. by * in. are required first of all, and the ends are shaped to fit into the brace as shown. When being ground the plug is held in the auxiliary jaws by the thumb screw. This should be done before placing the clip in the brace.
"It is, perhaps, hardly necessary for me to explain that the brace should not be turned in one direction only. The plug should be lifted often when being ground. and the emery smoothed down its length with the forefinger. Plenty of oil should be used, particularly when finishing the job.'